Ying Fang
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    Climbing-Related Resources

    Posted on June 13, 2025

    Climbing-Related Resources

    Posted on June 13, 2025

    Latest Research

    • The Keith Barr study that inspired the no-hang protocol
    • Hangboard training RCT among non-pro climbers: control vs. hang endurance vs. hang weight
    • Long-term climbing on shoulder morphology among high-level climbers
    • Long-term climbing on finger morphology

    Common Injuries and Rehab

    Wrist

    • Medial wrist pain/TFCC injury

    Knee

    • MCL Sprain

    Training and Injury Prevention

    • Dynamic warmup

    • The “no-hang” protocol

    • Injury prevention program

    • Tension block

    Tags: climbing performance injury
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    Ying Fang  •  2025

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